Map of Cinque, Terre, some views outside my room and a look at the Ligurian Sea from the trail.
Italy! Home of my ancestors and a place to explore. I’m in the Cinque Terre town of Riomaggiore, which overlooks the Ligurian Sea on the upper west coast of Italy. Cinque Terre is the name of a district that encompasses five towns, where small houses are surrounded by lush nature. Visitors to this district can hike among the five small villages, namely: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare.
The inhabitants of Cinque Terre benefit not only from its pristine waters, but from its natural environment, where wild nature is interspersed with vineyards, olive groves and citrus orchards, creating a precious bond between man, his traditions and this breathtaking stretch of coast. (from the Itlia web site)
I arrived here, today, from Florence, Italy after spending several days in that city. Travel to Riomaggiore was by train. On the way, I stopped in Pisa to visit the famous Leaning Tower and the grounds surrounding the tower. I found the area interesting, but I was anxious to continue on to my destination, so I only spent a couple of hours in Pisa.
My arrival in Riomaggiore was late in the day. I had trouble finding the room, (it took an hour to find it), so it was even later by the time I settled into my room. The most I could do was go to dinner, and then prepare for my hike the next day. The plan is to hike among all five towns of Cinque Terre.
Although I woke up early, I didn’t get started until almost 11:00 AM. The distance from Riomaggiore to Monterosso is 11 kilometer, so I doubt I will be able to reach all five of the towns today. Nevertheless, I am on my way to the first town, which is Manarola. The initial climb out of Riomaggiore was pretty steep. I didn’t have trekking poles or hiking shoes – just a pair of walking shoes. I thought the hike was fairly tough, but then I saw three young girls doing it in sandals. Boy that’s embarrassing.
The trail went up to 830 feet above sea level, which is the highest point on the trail. Manarola is one kilometer from Riomaggiore, so the hike went pretty fast and in less than an hour I was in Manarola.
Manarola
Manarola is huddled on and down the sides of a rocky outcrop, with the tall colorful houses leading down to a small harbour and piazza below. Some of the houses on the water side of the village look as if they might slip into the sea at any moment, but have probably looked the same for the last 500 years so I imagine they are not at any risk!
The main historic monument of importance in Manarola is the 14th century Church of Saint Lorenzo, with an ancient watchtower and the Oratorio dei Disciplinati close by on this principal square in Manarola.
It was lunch time, so I stopped at a small cafe and had some spaghetti with pesto sauce and a glass of wine, I took my time and enjoyed the ambiance of the small town. After lunch, I looked around a bit, and then headed for the next town, Corniglia.
Corniglia is about two kilometers from Manarola. The hike was scenic and not very difficult, but boy was it hot. Although it is mid-September in Italy, they are still experiencing mid-summer like temperatures. I was soaked with perspiration.
Unlike its four neighbors, the Cinque Terre’s central town of Corniglia does not snuggle down in a cove by the seaside but rather perches atop a ridge jutting into the Thyrrhenian, offering some commanding coastal panoramas (best from the end of the narrow main street).
The major disadvantage of arriving at Corniglia from the south (by trail or on the train, which lets you off down by the waters) is that the only way to reach the village is via a set of 365 brick stairs that suicide-switchback their way straight up the ridgeside.
Perhaps because of these intimidating steps, or because it’s not right down by the water, it’s the least touristy of the bunch, offering a glimpse of what the Cinque Terre were like before they became popular.
Sign warning hikers not to go down the path. I saw it at the end of the hike
It’s getting late and it is clear I won’t make it to Monterosso today. Vernazza is four kilometers from Corniglia, so I hurry down the trail as it is approaching 6:00 PM. Upon exiting the trail, I enter the outskirts of Vernazza and came upon the sign seen in the above image. It is warning hikers heading south. I’m heading north and never saw any similar sign. Besides that, I didn’t think the trail was all that bad, but then I’m used to the Appalachian Trail, so I guess everything is relative.
With Cinque Terre’s only proper harbor, Vernazza has a long history as a fishing village. While there is a small beach, sightseeing is more common in this cliffside town. Highlights include the 16th-century Belforte Tower (which offers incredible views of the area), the 11th-century Doria Castle and the 14th-century Santa Margherita d’Antiochia church. It involves a steep hike, but the shrine at Nostra Signora Di Reggio (Our Lady of Reggio) is well worth it.
It seems like it’s been a long day, but I have only been out for seven hours. Nevertheless, I’m done hiking and stop in a little restaurant for dinner and some wine. As the sun is about to set, I catch a train back to my room in Riomaggiore. I’ll visit Monterossa by train tomorrow.
Note: Some descriptions of the towns were taken from online travel sources.
